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By David Butterfield

Since 1977, the Holding family has transformed this historic Idaho resort while honoring its fabled past.


Carol and Earl Holding

On a February morning in 1977, Sun Valley executive Wally Huffman was summoned to owner Bill Janss’ office. There he met a middle-aged couple, Earl and Carol Holding, and was told to show them around the resort. Two days later, Huffman responded to a disturbance in Upper 5, a dormitory above the Ram Restaurant. There he found the Holdings stuffing mattresses through the windows to fall two stories onto the kitchen loading dock. Huffman called Janss and asked, “What should I do?” Janss replied, “I think you should do whatever Mr. Holding tells you to do.” The Holdings had purchased Sun Valley.

Janss had bought the resort from Union Pacific about 13 years earlier. He was an accomplished skier and had revitalized the mountain, but he was not a hotelier. They were now in a severe drought with minimal snowmaking, few skiers, and little cash flow. A sale was imminent. Corporate giants Disney and Ralston-Purina passed. The Holdings had built up the Little America franchise and owned Sinclair Oil; they knew the hotel business and had working capital. They had driven through Sun Valley only once, that summer, and then Earl saw an article in the Wall Street Journal about Disney’s play on the property. Something clicked. He made some calls, visited the resort again, and within two weeks had a deal. Janss said, “His timing was perfect.” And the mattresses flew out the windows.

(Photo top of page: Sun Valley in 1937.)

The Holdings were not skiers and to the locals, according to Huffman, “a complete unknown.” Unemployment was running at 27.5 percent that dry winter, yet the first reported act by the Holdings was to fire 1,400 employees. Under Janss, anyone with a pulse could get a job that came with a season pass or limited access to the mountain. Poof! The jobs and perks were gone. Not a good start for the new owner of a legendary ski area. Locals were incensed. But in truth it was the Janss Corporation that had to fire the employees as the Holdings had purchased only the assets; many workers were hired right back. There was, however, a new mission and strategy. Carol Holding remembers, “Why would anyone who didn’t know how to ski buy a ski resort? That wasn’t why we bought it—to come here to ski. We bought it to run as a business.”


Averell Harriman: The Visionary. As the chairman of Union Pacific Railroad, Harriman imagined and built a charming alpine village modeled after ski areas in Europe. It was America’s first purpose-built ski resort. In 1964 the UP sold Sun Valley to Bill Janss and Harriman said he felt like he had lost an old friend.


Bill Janss: The Ski Racer. He learned to ski in Yosemite and was an Olympic-caliber racer when the Games were cancelled for WW II. As a real estate developer, Janss had projects on the west coast and in Aspen. He opened the Warm Springs side of Baldy and Seattle Ridge, and pioneered snowmaking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Earl Holding came from a poor Salt Lake City family and even at eight years old was mowing lawns and doing minor landscaping. He had an extraordinary work ethic and kept at it. He served in the Army Air Corps in WWII and then pursued a degree in civil engineering at the University of Utah. One night while studying in the library he was introduced to Carol Orme, an 18-year-old student from Idaho Falls, Idaho. “He was tall, had brown hair, and piercing blue eyes,” she remembers. They were soon inseparable. Earl had saved nearly $10,000 from his landscaping work, and Carol had $400. With that they purchased a fruit orchard at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon. It was the first of many diverse and profitable businesses that would eventually run Earl Holding’s net worth to over $3 billion. With a smile Carol says, “He got my $400 before we were married, but it turned out to be a good investment.”

From the orchard, to the Little America gas station/hotel in Wyoming (with its famous repetitive highway signage featuring a penguin), to Sinclair Oil, to more hotels, the Holdings were hands-on owner/operators. They learned to be self-sufficient and deal with chores and problems themselves. That was the work ethic they brought to Sun Valley and it was not initially well-received.


Earl Holding: The Businessman. When Sun Valley was in financial duress under Janss, Holding stepped in to revitalize it as a more efficient business. He and his family diligently applied themselves to maintaining and upgrading every aspect of the resort. Holding was notoriously meticulous in overseeing operations of the resort. As an engineer he studied the nuts and bolts of ski lifts, snowmaking, and lodge construction. As a hotelier he monitored every aspect of the guest experience from food to carpet to bedding. 

“It wasn’t easy when you see bumper stickers that said, ‘Earl is a Four-Letter Word,’” says Carol. “We weren’t very welcome to begin with, but Earl started to turn this into a profitable business, and more people came, and everything got better. I couldn’t ask for more wonderful people than the local people. They really supported us and if it hadn’t been for them, we wouldn’t have made it.”

Earl Holding’s love of growing things is traceable to his landscaping years, the orchard, and his Wyoming and Arizona hotels. He brought that with gusto to Sun Valley. In the first spring he directed the planting of over 7,000 aspens and conifers around the village and golf course. The people doing the work were the newly re-hired employees. They had to learn to break down corporate departments and chip in where required. The Holdings worked right alongside them. Huffman remembers making beds and cleaning rooms, others served food and bussed tables. Hours were long, the work strenuous, and not everyone cottoned to the Holding’s methods, but the new owners never asked anyone to do something they wouldn’t do themselves and eventually found people who supported their style.

The Holdings and their children, Kathleen, Ann, and Steven, all learned to ski. For Earl, it was not recreation; he needed to ski to attend to mountain operations. According to Carol, “His work and his play were one and the same.” Carol and the kids, however, enjoyed the fun and challenge of skiing. Carol set a goal to ski Exhibition, one of Sun Valley’s more intimidating runs, and she did. She also became a dedicated runner and eventually competed in a marathon. But Earl was all about work. His contributions to the resort have been an inspired mix of maintenance, modernization, and masterpieces.

Almost every roof in Sun Valley—previously heated by a steam plant to promote snow melting—had to be redone as a modern cold roof. The Lodge and Inn were remodeled, the golf course redesigned. On the mountain, quad lifts replaced single and double chairs. Three spectacular day lodges were built at the Warm Springs and River Run bases and high on Seattle Ridge. These grand log and rock structures have interior finishes that exceed most resorts and delight guests. Two other mountain lodges, the fabled Roundhouse and the Lookout Restaurant, have also been remodeled. Over the years, a huge automated snowmaking system has been dialed in and a quality snow surface is virtually guaranteed from Thanksgiving to Easter. Expanded skiing acreage came with the development of the Frenchmen’s Bend area, a sheltered bowl with adventurous runs just above Ketchum. Grooming, the ski school, and patrol are all top-notch. And in addition to all the Sun Valley improvements, Holding acquired Snow Basin in Ogden, Utah and was a key player in the 2002 Salt Lake City Olympics.

Holding was relentlessly thorough in both his new projects and day to day management. According to Wally Huffman, he would discuss details and alternatives ad nauseum, far past the point when most felt a decision was nigh. “He had the vision…way beyond the standards of what any of us were used to.” Carol was always there as a sounding board and affirms he was tireless: “He set a very high bar for everyone and he didn’t want to waste any time.” He was driven: “He just always said…give it all you’ve got, and that’s what he’s done.”

Then tragedy struck. Perhaps it was due to his herculean workload or simply a natural life event, but just after Christmas in 2002, Earl suffered a stroke.

It was devastating for the family, staff, and locals whose respect and admiration he had earned. He was 76, and according to his doctors, this was the endgame. Carol recalls a remarkable moment in the ICU when a physician addressed the family: “’We can’t do any more. We suggest you call hospice.’ And Kathleen looked at the doctor and said, ‘You don’t know my Dad.’” And she was right.

Earl recovered, and in time, returned to work, though Carol stepped up and took on more responsibility. She was the driving force behind a new day lodge at Dollar Mountain because she wanted a better facility for children. She told Earl: “If you don’t build me a lodge over there, I’m going to put a tent up.” The lodge was completed in 37 weeks. They then forged ahead on other projects.


What began in 1936 as a lodge in a hayfield with a small, nearby town, is now a world-famous resort mixing the old west with modern amenities. Ketchum and Sun Valley as seen from Baldy today.

A gondola was built connecting River Run plaza to the Roundhouse, serving skiers by day and diners by night. They sculpted the White Cloud Nine golf course with tons and tons of topsoil graded onto a ridge above the valley. The landscaping and views are stunning. The luxurious Sun Valley Club restaurant was added nearby, and it took the golf and Nordic skiing experiences to new heights. They also created a marvelous amphitheater for outdoor events. With sweeping contours that echo the surrounding mountains, structural elements with bold flourishes, and the same elegant travertine marble that adorns the Getty Museum and St. Peters Basilica, the Sun Valley Pavilion is a work of art unto itself.

Earl Holding died in April 2013. Most people connected to the resort and local communities have only gratitude for his vision and contributions. The Holdings have now been stewards of the resort longer than Union Pacific and Bill Janss combined. Yet despite all the improvements, it remains much the same as it was during the formative years of the late 1930s. In addition to what they did, it’s what they didn’t do—radically change or over-develop Harriman’s storybook Austrian village. Today one can walk into Sun Valley feeling the same ambiance skiers experienced over 80 years ago. It’s like stepping into your grandmother’s snow globe.

The Lodge and Inn interiors were recently remodeled again. New service buildings and employee housing have been constructed. There’s a lift and more skiing acreage planned for Seattle Ridge. Additional development at the River Run base may be coming as well.

Sun Valley is one of the last great family owned resorts and Carol feels their children will carry the legacy on: “They all have the work ethic…I think they love Sun Valley like we do and want to keep it like it is…where people can walk the streets and feel like they’re in the country…the soul of Sun Valley, that’s what we want to keep.” 

David Butterfield is a filmmaker and writer who grew up in Sun Valley.

 

Stewards of Skiing History

The Holding family will be honored with a Stewardship Award for the preservation of Sun Valley’s skiing heritage at the 28th annual ISHA Awards banquet on December 10, 2020 in Sun Valley.

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The history of skiing in Zermatt is inextricably linked to the mighty Matterhorn.

By Everett Potter

Is there a more perfect ski resort than Zermatt? Set in a picturesque mountain valley at the base of the Matterhorn, this car-free Swiss village is surrounded by 38 summits above 4,000 meters, offering nearly 125 miles of pistes. It’s linked by lifts and trails to Cervinia in Italy, with another 100 miles of runs. 

In winter, Zermatt’s population swells from 5,700 to 40,000. Skiers from all over the world stay in its low-rise chalets and elegant century-old hotels, shop in high-end boutiques, dine on traditional fondue and Michelin-starred fare, and raise an après-ski glass at dozens of bars both on and off the mountain. And rising above it all is the Matterhorn, a pyramid-shaped outcropping of rock that’s hypnotic and dramatic. Zermatt’s ski history is inextricably linked to this iconic mountain, arguably the most photographed in the world.

Photo at top of page: The iconic Matterhorn rises above the village of Zermatt on the Swiss-Italian border. Its 14,692-foot summit was first conquered in 1865 by the British climber Edward Whymper. Kurt Muller photo.

During the mountaineering craze that seized Europe in the late 18th century, many peaks in the Alps were successfully summited, including Mont Blanc in 1786. But the Matterhorn remained stubbornly unconquered until 1865. That’s when a single-minded British printer named Edward Whymper finally made it to the top after seven previous attempts, only to lose four of his climbing party on the descent when a rope broke. That tragedy, which still resonates today when the Matterhorn is discussed in Zermatt—the Swiss and the English are remarkably quick to take sides—gave the mountain town even more cachet. More climbers followed and so did tourists, determined to see the magical peak for themselves. The British upper classes led the way, followed by the middle-class masses, traveling with Thomas Cook on organized tours that gave birth to today’s modern tourism industry.

 

Right: After seven previous attempts, Whymper finally made it to the top, only to lose four of his climbing party on the descent when a rope broke. The triumph and the tragedy, which still resonates in Zermatt today, gave the mountain town even more cachet with British tourists of the time. Photo: Zermatt Tourism

At first, they came by horse and carriage, or rode on donkeys, up the long valley that leads from the town of Visp. The opening of the Visp-Zermatt railway in 1891, followed by the opening of the Gornergrat Railway in 1898, the first electric railway in Switzerland, helped to bring many more summer tourists. They stayed at such newly opened hotels as the Riffelalp, the Zermatterhof and the Mont Cervin, which to this day are the leading five-star hotels in Zermatt, as well as the four-star Monte Rosa in the heart of the town.

This hotel empire was begun by Alexander Seiler in 1853, when he leased a small chalet that would later become the Monte Rosa. He took over the newly built Mont Cervin, and then built the Riffelberg mountain guest house. At 8,740 feet above sea level, it was Europe’s highest guest house at the time. It stands to this day and was where Mark Twain stayed in the 1870s on the trip that would result in A Tramp Abroad.

Left: Alexander Seiler started his hotel empire in 1853 with the leasing of a small chalet that would later become the four-star Monte Rosa. Over the next several decades, he acquired or built several more of Zermatt’s most famous hotels. Photo Seiler Hotels

Seiler would go on to acquire the Zermatterhof, the Hôtel des Alpes and then build the Riffelalp on a mountainside in 1884, with a rail link and panoramic view of the Matterhorn. A Zermatt newspaper in the late 19th century said that “the large estates in the Upper Valais are owned by two parties: the nuns and Seiler.” 

Right: Seiler built the Riffelalp on a mountainside in 1883, with a rail link and a panoramic view of the Matterhorn. Today’s glamorous hotel was built on its original foundation.

At the Riffelalp today, you see the glamorous five-star hotel built on the foundation of the original and also get a taste of local history by visiting the nearby stone chapel, built by and for the mighty Seiler family. It’s an elegant little mountain church with a bell tower and choir loft, as well as religious statues and plaques commemorating various family members.

Despite the hotels and rail lines, Zermatt then was strictly a summer destination. To keep the railway line running would have required building avalanche sheds to protect the rails from winter snows. The management company refused to make that investment, since they were already making plenty of money in the lucrative summer months.

In 1927, Seiler’s son, Hermann, opened the Victoria Hotel and winter tourism was born in Zermatt. The story goes that 180 Brits arrived in the town of St. Niklaus, about halfway up the rail line between Visp and Zermatt, and were then transported by sleighs up the valley to Zermatt. The success of that first winter convinced the federal government and the Canton of Valais to pay for avalanche sheds for the railway. In the winter of 1928–1929, limited service was offered on the Visp-Zermatt train line as well as on the Gornergrat.

Left: Tourists tote their skis up the snow-covered Banhofstrasse. Right: A train climbs from Zermatt to the summit of the Gornergrat and its high-alpine hotel. Photo David Bumann/Zermatt Tourism

In 1932, the Swiss ski championships were held in Zermatt, but the first ski lift was not constructed until a decade later. The resort was barely a winter destination, severely lagging behind both St. Moritz and Davos by some 60 years. Winter sports in Zermatt caught on, however, and by 1944, even in the midst of the war, Zermatt in neutral Switzerland already had more winter than summer guests.

On the other side of the Matterhorn, which Italians call Monte Cervino, the Breuil ski resort opened in 1936. Benito Mussolini decreed that the name should be changed to Cervinia to reflect the Italianate glory of the mountain (and to Italianize a Germanic name).

The real growth in Zermatt commenced after World War II, in 1945, when local families whose names adorn many of the smaller hotels and guesthouses, such as Perren, Biner and Julen, got into the hotel and ski business in earnest.

The Zermatt railways had been funded by outside investors and now Zermatters wanted to keep the investment as local as possible. A classic example was when Severin Julen, a farmer, and his ski instructor son managed to finance a single ski lift with backers from Zermatt families. It took them nearly a decade to raise the funds, but in 1957 they unveiled a single seat chair that ran from Findeln to Sunnega. Other enterprising families followed suit, and it led to the rapid expansion of Zermatt’s lift system. In 1969, a gondola was proposed to reach Klein Matterhorn, at 12,740 feet. It took 10 years before the project was able to satisfy environmental and political concerns and only opened in 1979, replaced just last year by a high-speed gondola.

In 2003, five lift companies fused into a single firm, Zermatt Bergbahnen AG, and Ecosign Mountain Resort Planners completed a 20-year master plan. That kicked off a long-term rebuild that, to date, has seen CHF 500 million invested in lifts, pistes and snowmaking.

Zermatt developed as a summer ski destination in the 1960s, with eight lifts taking skiers to the Theodul Glacier. It’s still common to see members of the Swiss ski team heading up the lifts in July and August, skiing, alas, on an ever-diminishing patch of snow.

Zermatt is also the starting point for the grueling Patrouille des Glaciers, over the Valais Alps to Verbier. Now held every second year, the event dates back to 1943 as an endurance exercise for mountain troops. Three-person teams deal with an elevation gain of more than 13,000 feet and an effective distance of about 68 miles. The next one starts on April 27, 2020.

Installed underground, the Matterhorn Museum includes a recreated 19th century village, vintage skis and Whymper’s broken climbing rope.

While ski culture thrives in Zermatt, it’s deeply intertwined with that of alpinism. The excellent Matterhorn Museum, which has been installed underground in a space where a short-lived casino once existed, has recreated a 19th century village of Zermatt, with vintage homes, vintage skis and exhibits that include a piece of Whymper’s rope. The museum’s theater has endless screenings of a truncated version of Der Berg Ruft (The Mountain Calls) by Tyrolean filmmaker Luis Trenker. The drama about Whymper’s legendary Matterhorn ascent was filmed in Zermatt in 1937–1938, and Trenker cut his cinematic teeth by working with director Arnold Fanck in 1921 on one of his early mountain films.

Adjacent to the museum is Zermatt’s Catholic Church, and behind it are the many graves of climbers who perished while attempting to climb the Matterhorn. The so-called English Church is even more atmospheric and is set on a hillside a short walk off the Bahnhofstrasse, the main street. It’s ringed by the gravestones of British mountaineers, and inside are memorials to those who perished in the late 19th and early 20th century while attempting to scale the Matterhorn.

It’s easy to feel the lure of the mountains here in summer, when the Matterhorn climbing season is in swing; more than 2,000 people attempt the climb each year. In winter, the appeal of the slopes infuses the town with a buoyant spirit. While Zermatt may not have played a role in pioneering the sport, its singular position as a center of alpinism, its dramatic beauty and its embrace of ski culture has made it Europe’s most beloved resort. 

Everett Potter is a frequent contributor to Skiing History and the editor of Everett Potter’s Travel Report (everettpotter.com).

This article originally appeared in the January-February 2020 issue of SkiingHistory.

 

 

 

 

 

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In a region of Norway rich with military history, skiers can ride a NATO train through a tunnel to the top of the mighty Gaustatoppen. BY JIMMY PETTERSON

A few odd ski areas exist in a time warp—living tributes to a bygone era of skiing, before the advent of snowguns to make the snow and fleets of snowcats to flatten it to perfection. These mountains are dedicated to freeriders, with few or no groomed pistes. La Grave in France was one of the first. Austria has the Krippenstein, and in the French Pyrenees, the cable car hauls freeriders up the Pic du Midi.

Norway has its own exclusive off-piste mountain—Gaustatoppen, near the village of Rjukan—with a lift that must rank among the strangest of all time. And the region has a fascinating backstory... 

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Small vertical, big results: A 750-f00t-high ridge in Ontario has spawned many of Canada’s Olympic and World Cup champions. By Lori Knowles

Creative Canadian marketers call it the Blue Mountains but locals know it as the escarpment—a rim overlooking Georgian Bay, a geological landmark of Southern Ontario with a vertical drop of 750 feet and a 2.5-mile-long strip of steep ski runs that have produced some of the world’s greatest ski racers: 1980 Olympic bronze medalist Steve Podborski; four-time Olympian Brian Stemmle; three-time World Cup downhill winner Todd Brooker; and six-time World Cup ace Laurie Graham. An impressive number of Canada’s top competitors spent their formative winters along this ridge: riding tows, dancing through gates, schussing icy chutes.

It started in the early 20th century, as it always does, with an intrepid group of men and women wearing laced boots and gabardine suits. Recognizing the ski potential of a snowy escarpment 100 miles (160 kilometers) north of Toronto near Collingwood, the Toronto and Blue Mountain ski clubs made their mark. Through the 1920s and ’30s they built ski jumps and cut runs. History books say a fox-hunting trumpet called skiers to the slopes; horses hitched to sleighs carried them to the runs. With names like Wearie, Gib, Nipper and Hans, these pioneers persevered...

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In this historic Swiss resort town, visitors are immersed in the wellspring of winter sports. By Everett Potter

A case can be made that the origins of modern winter sports lie in the Swiss resort and spa town of St. Moritz. In the late 1850s, Johannes Badrutt welcomed a steady stream of well-heeled British guests to his Kulm Hotel. They came in summer to hike and take the waters. But in winter he shut down for lack of visitors.

As the oft-told story goes, he wagered four of his best guests that they would love the winter in a town that claims 300 days of sunshine a year. He asked them to return with their families. If they didn’t have fun, he would pick up the tab. The Brits accepted the bet and ended up staying—and paying—until spring. They spread the word back home, at a time when first ascents of Alpine peaks were making headlines in London, and soon other sports-minded English families followed. Over time, more hotels opened and a host of activities were formalized, from skiing and ice skating to curling and taking death-defying descents on the Cresta run, the first skeleton course in the world. A winter sports capital was born...

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Installed at a small New York ski area, the world’s original high-speed detachable quad had the right idea with the wrong execution. BY JEREMY DAVIS

The opening of the Doppelmayr Quicksilver SuperChair at Breckenridge, Colorado in 1981 is often cited as the first operation of a high-speed, detachable quad chairlift. While this lift is certainly the world’s first successful detachable four-seater chairlift, an earlier prototype operated approximately a decade earlier in the most unlikely of places—a community ski area in Utica, New York.

In the mid 1960s, the Val Bialas Ski Center at the Parkway was modest, with a few trails and slopes served by a T-bar and rope tow. In 1968—with the popularity of skiing on the rise nationwide—the city council voted to spend $100,000 on upgrades.

A local manufacturer, Mohawk International, bid $114,000 and was awarded a contract to build a four-person detachable chairlift with stationary loading. Skiers would be taken up the mountain sideways, at a speed of 600 feet per minute. A 2,500-per-hour capacity was planned, which would far exceed any other lift’s capacity at the time. Sue Baum, the local Parks and Recreation Commissioner, envisioned the lift running year-round, with summer rides to a summit observation and picnic area.

This project would be Mohawk’s first foray into the ski lift business...

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A new coalition of volunteers, ski areas and landowners team up nationwide to restore historic ski trails—and launch a backcountry movement. By Jeremy Davis

The power of the people is gaining traction deep within the hardwood glades of New England, and spreading to the backcountry nationwide. Nonprofit groups, passionate skiers, landowners and ski areas are moving beyond traditional rivalries to band together to reopen historic trails.

New England is full of such remnants of its skiing past. More than 600 rope-tow and lift-served areas have closed in the past 80 years, along with downhill trails unserved by lifts. The Granite Backcountry Alliance (GBA), based in northern New Hampshire, is part of a new movement that’s looking to skiing’s past as a path to its future. The GBA, 400 members strong, recently resuscitated the long-lost Maple Villa Trail, in Intervale, N.H., on the outskirts of North Conway.

Though the unofficial hub of this trail reclamation phenomenon is anchored in the history rich—and therefore opportunity rich—mountains of New England, just about anywhere there are skiers, there are historic trails being rebooted—or at the very least, backcountry skiers banding together to preserve access to popular routes...

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In a talk to Park City's annual forum on leadership, Vail chairman/CEO Rob Katz explained his take on running North America's largest ski resort enterprise. Katz is an impressive guy, but his take on leadership focuses 100% on internal corporate culture. He offers no discussion of leadership for the communities in which Vail swings so much economic, social and political weight. What does this say about his worldview? Click here to see the one-hour video, including an interview by Park City's Myles Rademan.

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In 1943, Manhattan Project scientists took to the snow. They’ve never quit.

In July, 2018, newspapers around the American Southwest noted the 75th anniversary of the founding of Los Alamos National Laboratory, in 1943 code-named the Manhattan District. Less widely reported, in November: the 75th anniversary celebration of the Los Alamos Ski Club, owner and operator of the nonprofit Pajarito Mountain ski area.

The Los Alamos club, as far as is known, is the only ski club founded by nuclear physicists. Many of the young scientists recruited to develop a British-American atomic bomb were Central European refugees from Nazi-occupied lands – men and women who, in their university days, spent holidays climbing and skiing in the Alps, and some who escaped literally under fire. The rest were PhDs and grad students recruited from physics and chemistry departments across the United States, Canada and Great Britain. According to Deanna Morgan Kirby, in her excellent history Just Crazy to Ski, average age of the new population was 26. If there ever was a demographic destined to ski, it was this population of fit intellectual adventurers.

The new laboratory inhabited the campus of the Los Alamos Ranch School, a college-prep academy for boys that emphasized rugged outdoor living. At 7,320 feet elevation, the school got snow in winter. The kids played ice hockey on Ashley Pond (named for the school’s founder, Detroit businessman Ashley Pond), and skied up 10,440-foot Pajarito Mountain, seven miles to the west. The U.S. Army’s Manhattan Project, under the command of General Leslie Groves, chose the site because its dormitories and classroom buildings offered suitable office and laboratory space in splendid isolation from population centers of any description. The Army then bulldozed much of the site to build new labs, workshops and temporary housing for hundreds of young families, and dormitories for the unmarried folk of both sexes. Scientists arriving at this secret destination in the summer of 1943 found a dusty construction site surrounded by the scenic splendor of high desert. Everyone worked long days, but had Sundays free to hike, climb, ride horses and otherwise recreate in the mountains. Winter brought skating parties and, of course, skiing.

The new arrivals included a number of keen cross-country skiers and mountaineers, including Enrico Fermi (Nobel laureate, 1938) and his longtime associate Emilio Segrè (Nobel 1959); Cornell professor Hans Bethe (Nobel 1967); Niels Bohr (Nobel 1922); Harvard professor George Kistiakowsky and his explosives-lab partner Walter Kauzman; Berkeley grads Ben and Beckie Diven; and several grad students drafted into the Army’s Special Engineering Detachment. By November, 1943, as the first snows of a heavy winter descended on the Los Alamos plateau, the skiers, most equipped with the Army’s ponderous hickory skis, toured into the surrounding highlands.

In April, 1944, one of these trips turned into a grueling four-day rescue when University of Chicago physicist James Coon sustained a spiral fracture of the tibia. None of his seven colleagues had first-aid training, there were no communication facilities, and none of the local doctors knew how to ski. By the time Coon could be loaded into an ambulance, it was clear that the Los Alamos ski group needed a trained ski patrol – which implied a more formal level of organization.

That summer, the skiers began widening the Ranch School’s ski trails on Sawyer’s Hill, a few miles west of the security fence (the Army controlled thousands of acres, free of supervision by county and state authorities). The lightweight one-man chain saw would not reach the market until 1960. To speed the work, George Kistiakowsky, developer of the shaped explosives used to compress the bomb’s plutonium core to critical mass, came up with a “necklace” of plastic explosive meant to blast through each tree trunk near the ground. It worked.

Then three of the enlisted engineers, headed by John Rogers (a future pioneer of cryogenic physics), assembled components for a rope tow. At a junkyard in Albuquerque they scored a 1932 Chrysler engine and some Ford Model A wheels to use as pulleys. Kistiakowsky organized a nonprofit club to pay for the rope tow, and by November 10, 130 people paid dues. The volunteers went back to work, blasting a route for the rope. The Army agreed to plow four miles of road, send a bulldozer to level a parking area, and provide gasoline for the tow. On November 13, the club voted itself into formal existence as the Los Alamos Sawyer’s Hill Ski Tow Association.

The Navy had taken all the new manila rope so the three engineers scavenged short lengths of worn-out rope from a circus tent and spliced them together, enough for a 400-foot run. In operation, the rope shredded going around the Model A bullwheel, and had to be respliced several times a day. And – a serious design flaw – the Chrysler engine sat at the top of the tow, forcing lifty Harry Snowden to drive up an icy road, hauling cans of fuel, to the upper terminus just to start the machine each morning.

With the tow in operation, dozens of nonskiers showed up to learn the sport. Experienced skiers got bored with the short runs. Enrico Fermi began leading ambitious ski tours. Kistiakowsy scrounged up a couple of M29 Weasels that could tow skiers to runs well above the top of the rope.

No one stepped forward to teach beginners, but Kistiakowsy, a Ukrainian Cossack educated in Berlin, skied an elegant feet-together Arlberg style that served as an model for aspirants. Best skier in the group, by far, was the powerful Joan Hinton, who learned to ski at the Putney School in Vermont – so well that she’d been named to the 1940 Olympic squad. Without the distraction of ski racing, she earned a PhD in physics from the University of Wisconsin and went straight to Los Alamos.

As the ski season wound down in the spring of 1945, work on the bomb accelerated and the scientists had little time for recreation. In August the Trinity test, followed by the attacks on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, marked the success of the enterprise. Before snow fell again, two-thirds of the Los Alamos population departed to resume science elsewhere. The ski club entered peacetime with access to 2,000 feet of brand new rope, and a high-tech bullwheel engineered in the atomic-bomb shop. The skiers built a second, longer tow – this time with a new International Harvester diesel engine located at the base. Kistiakowsy, with his explosives-lab colleague Les Seely, was on hand to blast trees off the new lift line and some longer trails.

Snow came late that winter, the ski tows had a short season, and by the spring of 1946 club members began exploring Pajarito Mountain for higher terrain and more reliable snowpack. Peacetime also brought much free time to the remaining Los Alamos population, and the club transformed. With Seely as president, the newly-incorporated, nonprofit Los Alamos Ski Club formed a five-man chapter of the National Ski Patrol, led by Purdue physicist John Orndoff, and a two-man ski school.

The winter of 1947-48 came early and the snow fell deep. More new skiers came out, and the rope tow engines, which had to be pre-heated and hand cranked to start each frigid morning, were worked hard. On February 29, 300 celebrants turned out for the club’s first Skiesta party, beginning a 70-year tradition. That summer, the Atomic Energy Commission – which now owned and ran the Los Alamos lab and all its supporting infrastructure – authorized $6,800 to build an 800-square foot base lodge. Seely blew up more trees, to make new trails and supply the lodge with firewood.

In fact, the next five winters brought excellent snow, and skiing boomed at Sawyer’s Hill. The club invited Buzz and Jean Bainbridge, from Santa Fe Ski Basin, to take over the ski school. Whole families turned out to cut new trails, armed with cross-cut saws instead of plastic explosives. But 1956 brought drought. In March, 1957, 13 club members set out in a couple of jeeps to find better conditions on Pajarito Mountain, where, years earlier, Ranch School instructor Hup Wallis had cut a short ski trail. When the jeeps bogged down in the four-foot snowpack, the party climbed to the summit on skis. The club quickly voted to move the whole operation to the big hill. The Pajarito terrain – 1,400 vertical feet of it – faced north (Sawyer’s Hill faced east). In every respect Pajarito promised better skiing. But the seven-mile road in was impassable, the nearest electrical supply was at the lab and, of course, everything from trail clearing to lift construction would have to be done – and financed – by volunteer crews.

By this time Los Alamos constituted its own county. The county and the ski club together designated $15,000 for road improvement. Half that went to a construction company to grade the road, $1,200 for gravel, and the rest went to pay local teenagers to do the manual labor. The road opened in September – still a hairy drive but doable by rear-wheel-drive cars and busses, most days. Meanwhile dozens of volunteers devoted weekends to clearing trails through the rainiest, muddiest August anyone could remember. Not all the felled timber could be cleared out before heavy autumn snows, so skiers skittered over deadfall all winter on the trail they called Lumberyard. In October, volunteers crews moved an Army surplus building to the site, through three feet of new snow, to serve as the base lodge.  In November, one of the Sawyer Hill rope tow engines moved to Pajarito, where it powered a 2,300 foot tow rising 600 feet – possibly the longest rope tow in the world. The tow opened for business on November 12. The beginner tow moved in for Christmas, using sheaves machined from solid plate in the Los Alamos government shop. That winter, 365 club members enjoyed 38 days of weekend and holiday skiing, with 14 feet of snow. The following summer, Rope Tow 3 rose 485 feet to the summit.

By now, with H-bomb development finished, security had loosened at Los Alamos and in the years to follow the club could sell passes to the general public. The upper rope was far too steep for all but the strongest skiers, and the club began to plan for installation of a T-bar to the East Summit, with its own complex of trails. The new lift required a four-mile power line. The club raised $60,000 by selling 10-year season passes, and over the summer of 1962 the volunteers dug footings for the power poles and lift towers. The 3,300-foot Hall T-bar ran that winter, carrying 800 skiers per hour to the summit. At the same time, the club built a larger base lodge, complete with cafeteria.

Skiing grew more popular still, and crowding became a problem on the trails, lifts, lodges and parking lot. The steeper trails grew giant moguls. The club acquired 400 additional acres from the Atomic Energy Commission, and by 1965 cleared more trails (finally using modern chain saws), expanded the base lodge, and bought a John Deere 350 bulldozer for contouring and mogul-cutting. As a snow-grooming machine the bulldozer left much to be desired – after it rolled several times, it was replaced with a real snow-cat. The first chairlift went in over the summer of 1969, with more chairs, and new terrain, following in 1976, 1981, 1982 and 1994, with a new base lodge in 1987.

Today, the trail network extends across two miles of Pajarito’s north aspect. Following several snowless winters in the 1990s, club membership fell from its peak of 4,000, leading to financial crisis. After putting in a snowmaking system for the 2010 season – and after a couple of disastrous forest fires -- the club ran out of funds. Over the next several years the club negotiated transfer of the facilities to a public-private partnership between the county and a private management company now called the Pajarito Recreation Limited Partnership, which operates three other New Mexico ski areas. The club still owns the land.

This story is based on Deanna Kirby’s book Just Crazy to Ski: A fifty-year history of skiing at Los Alamos (Los Alamos Historical Society, 2003); “A Short History of the Los Alamos Ski Club” by Paul Allison and George Lawrence (LASC, 2018); and The Making of the Atomic Bomb by Richard Rhodes (Simon & Schuster, 1987).

 

Pajarito Facts

Base elevation: 9,000 feet

Summit elevation: 10,440 feet

Skiable acres: 750

Trails: 44 (20% easy, 50% intermediate, 30% difficult)

Lifts: 5 (1 quad, 1 triple, 3 double, 1 Magic Carpet) 

Terrain Parks: 2

Average winter season: mid-November to mid-March

On-mountain facilities: Rentals, Snowsports School, Retail, Pajarito Mountain Cafe

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In 1943, Manhattan Project scientists took to the snow. They’ve never quit. By Seth Masia

In July 2018, newspapers around the American Southwest noted the 75th anniversary of the founding of Los Alamos National Laboratory, in 1943 code-named the Manhattan District. Less widely reported, in November: the 75th anniversary celebration of the Los Alamos Ski Club, owner and operator of the nonprofit Pajarito Mountain ski area in New Mexico.

The Los Alamos club, uniquely, was founded by nuclear physicists. Many of the young scientists recruited to develop a British-American atomic bomb were Central European refugees from Nazi-occupied lands—men and women who, in their university days, spent holidays climbing and skiing in the Alps. The rest were recruited from physics and chemistry departments across the United States, Canada and Great Britain. According to Deanna Morgan Kirby, in her excellent history Just Crazy to Ski, average age of the new population was 26. If ever there was a demographic destined to ski, it was this population of fit and intellectual adventurers.

The new laboratory inhabited the campus of the Los Alamos Ranch School, a college-prep academy for boys that emphasized rugged outdoor living. At 7,320 feet elevation, the school got snow in winter. The kids played ice hockey on Ashley Pond (named for the school’s founder, Detroit businessman Ashley Pond), and skied up 10,440-foot Pajarito Mountain, seven miles to the west. The U.S. Army’s Manhattan Project chose the site for its splendid isolation from population centers of any description. The Army then bulldozed much of the site to build new labs, workshops and housing. Scientists arriving at this secret destination in the summer of 1943 found a dusty construction site surrounded by the scenic splendor of high desert. Everyone worked long days, but had Sundays free to hike, climb, ride horses and otherwise recreate in the mountains. Winter brought skating parties and, of course, skiing.

The new arrivals included a number of keen cross-country skiers and mountaineers, including Enrico Fermi (Nobel laureate, 1938) and his longtime associate Emilio Segrè (Nobel 1959); Cornell professor Hans Bethe (Nobel 1967); Niels Bohr (Nobel 1922); Harvard professor George Kistiakowsky and his explosives-lab partner Walter Kauzman; Berkeley grads Ben and Beckie Diven; and several grad students drafted into the Army’s Special Engineering Detachment. By November 1943, inspired by the first snows of a heavy winter, they toured into the surrounding highlands.... 

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In northern Vermont, a “crazy idea” has become a world-class, award-winning cross-country and outdoor center. By Peggy Shinn

In February 2014, as the Olympic torch was lit in Sochi, Russia, the Craftsbury Outdoor Center in northern Vermont was having an opening ceremony of its own. Around a bonfire, locals raised glasses of cider and toasted Hannah Dreissigacker, Susan Dunklee and Ida Sargent, three of Craftsbury’s own who were competing in biathlon and cross-country skiing at the Winter Games. 

The three athletes, who grew up skiing at the Craftsbury Outdoor Center (COC) and went on to compete for its elite Craftsbury Green Racing Project, were the first of many Olympians that the COC hopes to celebrate. This past winter, Sargent scored several top 20s in World Cup sprint races, including a fifth in a team sprint with former Dartmouth teammate Sophie Caldwell. In biathlon, Dunklee earned her second World Cup podium, finishing second in a sprint race in Presque Isle, Maine. Teammate Dreissigacker competed in her third world championships, with her best result coming in the sprint race (she finished 18th). 

These three world-class athletes symbolize how far the COC has come from its humble beginnings. In 2015, Craftsbury Nordic was named the Cross Country Club of the Year by the U.S. Ski and Snowboard Association, honored for “stepping up to host national-level events” like the U.S. Masters National Championships and two USSA Super Tour weekends with nearly 800 starts each weekend. COC also won the 2015 John Caldwell Award, the highest honor given by the New England Nordic Ski Association. Both organizations lauded COC for its superior organizational skills, homologated race courses with snowmaking, its new eco-friendly day lodge and training facilities, and its commitment to developing the next generation of racers. It’s also a popular destination for recreational skiers, who stay for a weekend—or longer—in the dorm-style lodge, lakeside cottages and brand-new cabins.

The story begins in 1973 when, as family lore goes, Russell and Janet Spring wanted to escape the “rat race” of Stowe, Vermont. After graduating from Yale, Russell—the brother of ski market-research pioneer and former ISHA chairman Jim Spring—had moved there to become an alpine ski instructor in 1950. A few years later, he met and married Janet. They started a family, and Russell became a stockbroker for F.I. DuPont in its Burlington office.

“He was driving back and forth to Burlington every day to lose lots of money,” says his son, Russ. “The market was doing poorly, and he got sick of it.”

So Russell and Janet bought half of a cattle ranch in Wyoming. But the deal fell through when their partner’s husband ran off with a hired hand. Instead, the Springs moved to Craftsbury, where Russell founded the Craftsbury campus of Windridge Tennis Camp. 

Driving back and forth to Windridge every day, Russell passed Cutler Academy, a defunct boys school on Big Hosmer Pond. He proposed an idea to his family: buy the property and start a sports center. “We all voted a resounding no,” remembers Russ with a laugh. “But in our family, it wasn’t really a democracy. [Dad] voted yes, and we obviously know what happened.”

With two partners, Arlen Smith and Dean Brown, Russell leased the property in 1975 and purchased it a year later. Thus was born the Craftsbury Sports and Learning Center, soon to be renamed the Craftsbury Outdoor Center. The center offered cross-country skiing in the winter and kids’ soccer camps in summer. Campers and skiers stayed in Cutler Academy’s former dorms and ate in the dining hall, where the Springs served famously delicious food.

“We started with one rickety snowmobile and one little piece of stuff to drag behind it,” said Russ. “I was the snowmobile driver, and Russell and Janet were the ski instructors.” 

The 25 kilometers of trails were mostly old sugaring and logging roads. But the trail layout and grooming were better than at other nordic centers at the time, and they had an experienced director, John Brodhead, to help maintain them. A former Middlebury College nordic combined skier, Brodhead started in 1980 and is retiring in December 2016. 

The operation saw very few guests in its early years. Undeterred, the Springs kept expanding the trail network. Russell also expanded the Center’s programs, including a summer sculling camp—the “crazy idea” of a long-time friend who saw Big Hosmer Pond as an ideal rowing venue. Two of their first sculling coaches were Olympic rowers Dick Dreissigacker and Judy Geer; Dick and his brother, Pete, had recently started an oar-building business in nearby Morrisville. They would soon come out with the Concept 2 indoor rowing machine that’s now ubiquitous in fitness centers across the country. 

In 1981, Brodhead started an event that’s now an annual institution at the COC: the 50-kilometer Craftsbury Marathon. The race now attracts around 500 skiers each year, including some of the nation’s top cross-country skiers, past and present. He also started nordic programs for both kids and adults that brought the community to the COC, including the Dreissigackers with their three kids, the Dunklees, and the Sargents. 

In 1994, Russell let his son Russ have a hand in running the COC. “He was still actively involved, but he stopped making all the decisions unilaterally, which was the only real difference,” says Russ. “I was allowed to make decisions as long as he agreed with them.” 

In 2007, Dreissigacker and Geer proposed buying the COC through a family foundation. Russ and his sisters thought it was a good idea. But Russell was opposed to it. “He was bound and determined to keep it in the family,” said Russ.

After a few years of conversation, Russell conceded when he realized that Dreissigacker and Geer believed in his original vision and wanted to improve it, not change it. They were all for simple, comfortable lodging and a focus on outdoor, human-powered sports. They also wanted to start a resident program for elite athletes and add more community fitness programming.

Dreissigacker’s and Geer’s nonprofit foundation purchased the COC in 2008. A year later, the Craftsbury Green Racing Project was born. Funded by the COC, Dick and Judy’s foundation, and corporate sponsors, the CGRP typically attracts NCAA Division I graduates who aspire to compete at the World Cup level in cross-country skiing and biathlon (as well as rowing). In addition to Hannah Dreissigacker, Dunklee, and Ida Sargent, CGRP’s Caitlin Patterson and Kaitlynn Miller have competed in World Cups. 

Conceived by Middlebury graduate Tim Reynolds, the CGRP allows athletes to train full-time while earning their keep by working at the COC. They teach fitness programs, coach kids in the popular Craftsbury Nordic Ski Club, and maintain the garden, among other chores. They also helped to design the new energy-efficient, spacious fitness center and ski lodge that opened in June 2014.

In 2012, the CGRP added a year-round rowing team, and CGRP rower Peter Graves (no relation to the well-known ski announcer) finished 13th in the quad scull at the London Olympics. Four CGRP rowers won 2016 Olympic Trials, but in the end, failed to qualify the men’s quad for the Rio Games.

While Olympians ski the trails and ply the water of Big Hosmer Pond, the Craftsbury Outdoor Center remains a community resource—and a community itself.

“Its success is primarily built on the vision and generosity of Dick and Judy, who are way too humble to tell you that,” says Lindy Sargent, Ida’s mom. “We call it our ski family, and it includes all the racers and parents of racers around New England and now the U.S. Ski Team. But it started with the club, and everyone who skis at Craftsbury is part of the family.”  

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